Saturday, September 18, 2010

Rohtang ("Pile of Corpses") Road – Good Times 1 Mile Up

Day 18 – From Jespa to Manali

Again, we had an early start. I think we left Jespa around 6:30 AM. It was important to get on the road early, since the road ahead would get more treacherous and wet as the day went on. The melt-water and potential monsoon rains could potentially leave us stuck on the road, unless we got a jump start on it.

The sunrise over the Himalayas was beautiful and clear. I couldn't help but click away with the camera, as scene after scene of natural beauty passed us by.

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Along the way, our cavalcade became blocked by a big herd of sheep and Pashmina goats.  I jumped out of the car to walk with them for a bit.

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Here's a short video I took, giving a better view of the sheep and pashmina goats:

After the goats, we jumped back in the car and continued down the mountain. At another police checkpoint, we stopped off for a stretch break. I thought I'd take a shot of one of the many "English Wine Shops". They're so named because the alcohol is labeled in English. Apparently, the imported alcohol is highly sought after. A few members of our group had been craving something besides Kingfisher beer and bought some whiskey at one of these.

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The steep hillsides and narrow switchbacks of the mountain continued on, along with scene after scene of natural beauty.

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Soon, we made our way to the notorious Rohtang pass (now down to 13,000 ft.). As I may have mentioned in an earlier post, Rohtang means "pile of corpses". It is one of the oldest trade routes along the silk road in Kashmir, although the road on which we drove was across the valley from the well worn foot paths of the goat herds and nomad that continue to make this trek on foot.

I particularly like the shot of the herder walking into the mist at the pass. He came running down the mountain, shouting at his pack of mules, and then disappeared down the road.

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The next two are favorites of mine. The bulldozer parked on the edge, shows that the B.R.O. is prepared to make daily repairs to this road as melt-water and rain work to destroy the road. As the clouds moved up the side of the mountain, we found ourselves in a surreal environment. Knowing that the valley was anywhere from 1-2 km below, and the packed mud that was making due as our road was often narrow enough to allow only one lane of traffic, we simply had to trust that our drivers were very experienced and that they wanted to live just as much as we did.  The nearly bald, retread tires on the cars didn't help confidence much. But hey, if it's my time to go, it's my time…

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All along, we would see groups of people on the side of the road doing manual road construction with picks, shovels and sledge hammers.

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We stopped off in a little town called Kothi, ate our boxed lunches and went for a walk.

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Within an hour or so, we made our way into the town of Manali. After a rest at our hotel, we regrouped for a walk through the town and a bite to eat. A bunch of us met at a place called Chop Sticks in town. The food was fantastic.  Now, a word of warning. If you ever find yourself in the Manali area at Chop Sticks, order just one thing and share it with someone. We all ordered and were astounded to see the quantity of food. Each dish seemed like a meal for two. I had Mo Mo's and chow mien noodles. Wow was I stuffed.

We were relieved to have made it down the mountain, and to have a 2-day respite in Manali to rest.

 

Out of the Wild – From Sarchu to Jespa

Day 17 – Only 110 km to Jespa

The longest leg of our journey was now behind us.  With over 310 km now between us and Leh, we were looking forward to only half the journey.  It would only be 110 km from Sarchu to the little town of Jespa. Of course, we'd still be driving on the side of steep mountains with lorries attempting to pass us with only inches to spare, and all the while looking down 1-2 km down the side of a mountain.  But hey, it sounded like cake-walk next to the 14 hour drive from Leh to Sarchu the day before.

We had a nice breakfast in the mess hall in Sarchu, and they brought a bucket of hot water to each of our tents so we could freshen up. A quick bath with a wash cloth, and a quick shave, and I was ready to face the day.

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As the next few pictures demonstrate, there were numerous places along the road where a stream of melt-water would run across the road.  A little nerve racking, but in time I found I didn't notice it much.

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We stopped off for a bite to eat while Baru processed all of our passports at another police checkpoint in Darchu. The memory of the cold from the night before in Sarchu camp was enough to motivate me to buy a local hand-woven cap. Some local men kept staring at us, and Monica asked them if they'd like their picture taken with me.  She and I took turns posing with our new Himalayan homies.

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An hour or so later, we pulled into Jespa.  It was quite amazing that we all noticed the change in the road.  After a couple of days of bouncing around in a Toyota Quantis 4x4.2 on rocks and streams and mud and broken pavement, it's amazing what a balm a nice smooth, tar-paved road can be.  There seemed to be an intake of breath in our car as the pavement became "real", and it felt like we were one inch closer to civilization.  Little did we know what was in store for us the next day (Rhotang "Pile of Corpses" Pass).

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We settled into our guest-house (homey hotel), enjoyed tea and biscuits, and scattered into groups to go for various explorations around this little road-side village.  There wasn't much spectacular about this town.  It was basically a way for us to break up the journey with some comfort.  We had really only been on the road for about 4-5 hours (110 km) since Sarchu. But, we'd have a 7+ hour journey the next day.

Apparently, the BRO (Border Roads Organization) is known in India for their catchy roadside signs.  This one says "After Drinking Whisky Driving is Risky".  Some of my favorites include "I am curvy, go slow" and "I like you, but not so fast".  If only the U.S. transportation authority had this kind of a sense of humor…

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It's interesting that the milestone markers are shaped like tomb stones.  I wonder if this is a dark sense of "Rhotang" humor, or just happenstance. This one showed us just how far we'd come in the two days since Leh (337 km).  Of course, with our 90 km detour, our actual journey was closer to 427 km so far. But who's counting?

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